This game I shot about 1,500 and sent 50 on deadline for my first edit. Out of that, here are 10 of my favorites.
Philip G. Pavely/USA Today Sports Images
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Pittsburgh Steelers linebacker T.J. Watt is named the NFL Defensive Player of the Year.
The All-Pro player registered 22.5 sacks for the 2021 season having him tied for the most sacks ever recorded in a single season.
Here are some of the photos I took at Heinz Field this past season for USA Today Sports Images.
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Most sports, this can be debated. But not in the NFL.
An astounding 7 Lombardi Trophies, more than any 1 team, is just one example.
I feel blessed that as a photographer for the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review and USA Today Sports Images, I covered him many times. There was also a time or two when I went to New England, but these are mostly regular season or playoff games at Heinz Field in Pittsburgh from 2002-2017.
Every key game the Steelers faced the Patriots, I always thought that Brady would prevail. Most of the time he did.
Good luck in retirement!
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Being the drummer in "the World's Greatest Rock 'n' Roll Band" for over 50 years is amazing!
I was fortunate enough to the The Rolling Stones live. Once was when Pearl Jam opened up for the Stones at PNC Park and the other time they played the halftime show for Super Bowl XL in Detroit.
These photos are from Super Bowl week.
He will surely be missed.
Philip G. Pavely / Pittsburgh Tribune-Review
]]>Sports Photography Class with Philip G. Pavely/Pavely Photography
WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF SHOOTING LOW?
When you are watching a professional sporting event, do you ever notice that many of the photographers are kneeling or sitting as they are taking pictures? Why do you think this is? Well, from experience, I will tell you exactly why I do it.
Sep 15, 2019; Pittsburgh, PA, USA; Pittsburgh Steelers wide receiver JuJu Smith-Schuster (19) is covered by Seattle Seahawks cornerback Jamar Taylor (24) during the second quarter at Heinz Field. Smith-Schuster was ruled out of bounds on the play and not in for a touchdown. (Philip G. Pavely/USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D750; 70-200mm f 4; 160mm; 1/2500 sec; f4; ISO 640
GET KNEEPADS
You will have less mobility when shooting on the ground. So you have to be careful. If you do not have the confidence that you can make a quick escape as the action comes to you, then remain standing or make sure you are farther from the play.
If I choose to shoot on the ground, I prefer kneeling over sitting on the ground. It gives me more mobility as opposed to sitting because if I have to move quickly, I can move faster from my knees. That is why at some professional sporting events, it is prohibited to sit on the sidelines.
But kneeling can be hard on the knees and soil your clothes or skin depending on the surface. That is why I go with knee pads, as do many other professional sports photographers. There are many styles to choose from and it seems as though no two people have the same pair. I prefer a hard plastic shell with a cloth inside and velcro straps.
The plastic shell will give you an extra layer of protection for the knees and if it’s a wet surface, it will keep you dryer longer. The velcro straps will give you the option for a quick release in case you need to adjust them or simply take them off during a break in the action so the backs of your knees can get some fresh air.
Shooting from the knees will also give me the option to shoot from sitting up high as well as dropping lower to the ground. The difference in just a couple of feet can improve your photos big time! Sometimes I like to set my camera on the ground and get an extreme low angle. This is similar to shooting in a photo pit at some baseball games.
Andrew McCutchen takes a practice swing as the Pittsburgh Pirates host Opening Day at PNC Park April 3, 2016 (Philip G. Pavely/Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
Camera Body: Nikon D750; Lens: 70-200mm f 4; Settings: 160mm; 1/2500 sec; f4; ISO 640
CLEAN BACKGROUND
When you are standing up, you will potentially have a lot of the playing surface as your background. Sometimes this is good, but when your frame is 75% bright green, fake grass, it can tend to be ugly. From the ground, you will eliminate a lot of this as your background and instead will have more of the environment you are shooting in. Even if you can swap out grass for blurred fans, I'll take that. Pay attention though to the bright objects in the background like signs, vehicles, or people in bright colored clothing.
Whether it is dark trees in the distance at a youth field, or blurred fans in the stands, your background can significantly improve by removing distractions.
Sep 16, 2018; Pittsburgh, PA; Pittsburgh Steelers wide receiver JuJu Smith-Schuster (19) picks up a first down in the second quarter as Kansas City Chiefs cornerback Kendall Fuller (23) makes the play at Heinz Field. ( Philip G. Pavely/USA TODAY Sports)
Camera Body: Nikon D750; Lens: 70-200mm f 4; Settings: 70mm; 1/1250 sec; f4; ISO 250
I look to have a background that is separated from the subject by many feet. The separation of the background to the action will help make the non-action more blurred as long as you shoot wide open or nearly wide open at f 2.8 or f 4. Just remain focused on the subject.
FACES BECOME EASIER TO SEE
If you are kneeling and using a zoom or telephoto lens of at least 200mm you should have a clean background or be on your way to having one. Instead of shooting shooting at eye level you can get lower and shoot up and this will show the face easier. If a player has a hat pulled down low, it will be harder to see their eyes from a standing position. This is especially true on bright, sunny days. And, if a lot of your subjects are kids, you may quite possibly be shooting down on them. But if you lower your shooting position then you may be able to look up into the face and under that hat or helmet.
Sep 25, 2019; Pittsburgh, PA; Pittsburgh Pirates pitcher Keone Kela (35) delivers a pitch to the Chicago Cubs at PNC Park. (Philip G. Pavely/USA TODAY Sports)
Camera Body: Nikon D3S; Lens: 200-400mm f 4; Settings: 290mm; 1/1000 sec; f4; ISO 6400
From the stands you will be shooting down on their hats or helmets unless the athlete happens to turn up towards the sky. That can make a great image, but generally, you will not be able to see the facial expressions as much. And as we’ve discussed before, faces are what can take an image to the next level.
FEWER DISTRACTIONS
When I kneel, I find myself more concentrated and in-tune to the game going on. Quite simply, there are fewer distractions. With a majority of people standing at an event, it is easier to get caught up in conversations and knocked off your game with talking. Sometimes it is valid as we discuss what just happened in a play, or what we anticipate may happen next. But the small talk, even for a split second, may be enough to miss a photo. Every second counts.
3 TAKE-AWAYS FOR SHOOTING AT A LOW ANGLE
The three take-aways from getting low when taking sports photos are:
1. Clean background
2. See more faces
3. Less distracting
So next time you are out shooting a game, take a moment (or sequence of plays) to get lower to the ground and look at the results. Compare them to what you got in a standing position. You very well likely will find that your images take on a new and fresh look and begin to resemble a more professional looking shot.
If you have any idea, question or topic that you would like discussed, please leave a comment below, email at [email protected], or leave a comment in the blog post at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Thanks, and happy shooting!
-Phil
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Sports Photography Class with Philip G. Pavely/Pavely Photography
HOW DO I GET GOOD PHOTOS OF FACES DURING ACTION?
When taking sports photos, nothing is better than seeing the face of an athlete in action. Being able to see the eyes and mouth clearly will help your photos tremendously.
The Steelers' Heath Miller is brought down by the Chiefs defense after gaining four yards on the opening drive at Heinz Field Sunday, Dec. 21, 2014. The Steelers defeated the Chiefs 20-12 to clinch a playoff spot.
Nikon D3; 400mm f 2.8; f/2.8; 1/1000 sec; f5; ISO 640
I love when I get good action AND a good face. But it's not always easy or even possible. You have to be prepared, quick, and sometimes just plain lucky. Sometimes you are on, but the player tuns the other direction at the last moment. In order to show faces you have to get closer to the action. Whether with your lens or physically moving, you need to get it right in the camera.
SHOOT TIGHT AND EXPOSE PROPERLY
"Tight is Right" is what we say when shooting a game. You want to be tight. If you shoot tight, you have a better chance of getting it right. Crop in the camera and you won't have to in post-production. Having the lens on your camera is the first step in doing so. But what lens?
Well, I primarily right now use a 70-200 mm and a 200-400mm. With these two lenses, I can get a lot of what I need. There is the wide angle lens for certain instances, but that is my least used lens when I shoot action.
I want to be as tight as possible to show the players and play. Not every time is it necessary to have the whole body in the frame. And certainly, you do not need a bunch of out of focus players peppered throughout your image. It can be too distracting.
Nov 3, 2019; Pittsburgh, PA, USA; Indianapolis Colts quarterback Jacoby Brissett (7) warms up before playing the Pittsburgh Steelers at Heinz Field. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D750; 200-400mm f 4; f/5; 1/3200 sec; f5; ISO 400
The first trick I use regularly if there are no players near me and I want to get a test shot is to take a photograph of the grass. The shades of grass can very greatly like skin tones. However, if I have consistent green grass, I know it is going to be very close, or just a tad brighter than the skin tone of a Caucasian. If the person has darker skin, then you may want to open up your lens up to a stop from your test shot of grass to see how close you are. If it is at a baseball game, I may even use a combination of infield dirt and outfield grass to completely fill my frame for the test shot.
Next, is to hone in on my exposure. If you are shooting loose, your camera meter may be fooled. It may pick up a lot background elements (turf, sky…) That’s why I will do an exposure test on a player that is closer to me to get the correct readings. If I am at a game to photograph a certain player, that player may be positioned on the other side of the field from me. I cannot wait for them and the play to get closer. That is why I will take a test frame of a player close to me. I will get a tight shot of them in similar light so when the player I need gets closer…BAM!… I am ready.
An airborne Amani Toomer, of the New York Giants, is sandwiched between Steelers defenders DeWayne Washington and Joey Porter in the first quarter Dec. 10, 2000 at The Meadowlands. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
If it is soccer for instance, I generally shoot the players full body. If they are farther away I zoom in to get this. As the play moves closer to me, I will zoom out somewhat. However, if I see the ball is going to be a header, I will zoom in and focus on the player(s) I think who are going to head the ball. You will see the facial expressions and moisture flying through the air. This goes for boxing too.
Sweat flies from the head of Paul Spadafora as he fights Rodney Jones during a Lightweight bout Sept. 9, 2000 at West Virginia'a Mountaineer Race Track and Gaming Resort. Spadafora won by decision to improve his record to 31-0. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
If you are shooting regularly at an indoor arena or rink, the light will remain relatively constant assuming the time of day is the same and they didn’t change a bunch of lights. If you are inside, write down your numbers for future reference. That goes for outside too. Write down the conditions you are shooting in and log the numbers or remember them somehow for future use.
FOCUS ON THE FACE
When the play is farther away and you are shooting loose, your focus will not change that much. Especially if the action is going left to right. However, if the play is coming to you, get ready to be quick with your focus. Sometimes it is the reaction after a particular play.
Colorado Rockies pitcher Joe Kennedy, right, gets help from catcher J.D. Closser in bringing Pirates batter Jason Kendall to the ground during a fourth-inning altercation at PNC Park in Pittsburgh, PA Aug. 15, 2004. Kendall, who was hit by a pitch, charged the mound causing both benches to empty before he and Kennedy were ejected from the game. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
Most people (including myself) use auto-focus predominantly. You may have to move the focus sensor to the left or right as the play gets closer. If you leave it center focused and the players get closer, you may be focussing on the space between both players. This will result in an out of focus image. So, move that sensor left, right, up, or down as needed to maintain focus on the player.
Pittsburgh Steelers tight end Heath Miller runs for a first down during a game at Heinz Field September 2007. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
Nikon D2H; 400mm f 2.8; 1/1250 sec; f 2.8; ISO 200
In baseball, if you are taking a picture of the pitcher and are far away, just focusing on the player in general will usually give you a good image. But, if you are shooting tight, make sure you focus on the face. People will generally focus on the jersey as a starting point because the letters or numbers on the front appear to give you an in-focus image and the contrast in the color of a jersey will help your auto-focus. However, as you get closer to the action, things may change. The face may be several inches behind the jersey. And that will give you an out-of focus image and will become more evident as you enlarge the image.
May 22, 2019; Pittsburgh, PA, USA; Pittsburgh Pirates pitcher Michael Feliz (45) delivers a pitch against the Colorado Rockies at PNC Park. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S; 300mm f 2.8; 1/0000 sec; f 4; ISO 5000
That is why I will generally start out center-focused but why I continually move the tracking horizontally or vertically. It is quite common for my camera to be locked in on something that is not direct center.
LOOK FOR A CLEAN BACKGROUND
Another advantage of shooting tight is you get a clean background. Eliminating a busy background will help your images greatly. If you can manage to find a clean background, your image will be even cleaner as you zoom in on the subject for action or a portrait. A lot of great faces may happen just after a play as the emotion plays out.
Michael Jordan enjoys a cigar and his shot at the Mario Lemieux Celebrity Invitational.
3 TAKE-AWAYS FOR GETTING BETTER FACES IN YOUR ACTION PHOTOS
1. Shoot tight
2. Focus on the face
3. Have a clean background
The Pittsburgh Steelers Joey Porter celebrates his first quarter sack against the Miami Dolphins at Heinz Field Sept. 7, 2006. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
Nikon D2H; 300mm f 2.8; 1/500 sec; f 2.8; ISO 640
If you do these, you WILL get better at showing faces in your action sports photography pictures. Making great images is fun. Having faces in those pictures is even more fun!
New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady reacts as he takes the field to play the Pittsburgh Steelers at Heinz Field December 17, 2017. (Philip G. Pavely (USA Today Sports Images)
Nikon D750; 300mm f 2.8; 1/1250 sec; f 4; ISO 6400
So, grab your camera, go outside, and make some pictures.
If you have any idea, question or topic you would like me to discuss, please leave a comment on Pavely Photography social media, email me at [email protected], or leave a comment in the blog post at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Thanks, and happy shooting!
-Phil
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Sports Photography Class with Philip G. Pavely/Pavely Photography
WHAT MAKES A GREAT SPORTS PHOTO?
When you think of a sports image, what do you see? I see a moment frozen in time. A micro-second captured in peak action. It is of a great play that is forever referenced, or, it is a picture that has grass, dirt, sweat, or a human suspended in the air.
Sep 16, 2018; Pittsburgh, PA, USA; Pittsburgh Steelers quarterback Ben Roethlisberger (7) dives for a touchdown in the fourth quarter against the Kansas City Chiefs at Heinz Field. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S 70-200mm f/4 1/2000 sec; f4; ISO 640
So, how can you get this type of photo? Well, it takes a little work and a whole lot of frames shot. But, if you learn what you can do with your camera, you can consistently freeze the action no matter what time of day, or whether you are inside a dark gym or on a bright turf field.
STOP ACTION
Stopping a moment in peak action is what it’s is all about. That’s what we as sports photographers do and we love the end result when it all works out. Basically, every play we are looking to stop the action to get a rewarding image.
Sep 15, 2019; Pittsburgh, PA, USA; Pittsburgh Steelers wide receiver JuJu Smith-Schuster (19) flies through the air for a first down against the Seattle Seahawks during the third quarter at Heinz Field. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D750 200-400mm f/4 1/4000 sec; f4; ISO 640
You want to isolate a moment in time. Stop the action. But how do you do this?
WHAT SHOULD MY SETTINGS BE?
For the camera settings, we are going to work in manual mode. I prefer to shoot primarily in manual so I have complete control over the exposure. If some files are poorly exposed, I prefer it to be because I had the wrong settings as opposed to the camera being fooled for whatever reason.
If you are going to take pictures having the camera decide all of your settings, then set the camera to shutter priority mode, have the shutter at least 1/1000 sec., and hold your breath that you have proper exposures.
If you are going manual (my prefernece!) the first thing I work with is the shutter speed. I want my shutter fast. I want to hear a rapid fire clicking coming from the camera as each click represents a shot while the shutter opens and closes. It may be 5, 7, 9, 10, or many more frames a second.
There are three controls that determine if your picture will be properly exposed. You have to work the shutter speed, ISO, and aperture together to make a perfect exposure. For stopping action in sports, I start with the shutter speed.
First off, you have to set the shutter speed on your camera to a high number. I prefer to go with 1/1000 sec for starters, but I move that number a lot depending on the amount of light at the event I am covering.You can go as low as 1/500 of a second, but anything slower will show motion and blur. You can use a flash in some instances at 1/250 sec and that will sop the action, but for this we are going with all natural light.
The higher the number equals the more frames you can take per second. A picture at 1/2000 sec. that is properly lit can show blades of grass or beads of sweat frozen in the air. It also will show in detail the seams of a baseball as it is pitched or hit if it is shot tight enough.
"Schmidt Hit" 1998 Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
If you are shooting at 1/125 sec. then those elements would appear a little blurry from the motion. The higher the number equals the higher the odds you will have for isolating a very fast object.
The next thing I work with is the aperature. I prefer my lens to be wide open or near wide open. That means you want to shoot at the smallest number on your lens. You want to let in the most light you can. This number may be, 2.8, 4, or 5.6 for instance.
I am a Nikon shooter and the lenses I use most frequently for sports are either f 2.8 or f 4. The reason lenses that sports photographers use are big and bulky is because we want to have the ability to shoot at f 2.8 or f 4 to allow the most light. Rarely am I more open than f 5.6. Plus, if I shoot at f 2.8 instead of f 5.6, I gain two stops of light. That may mean I can boost my shutter speed from 1/500 sec to 1/2000 sec.
Working the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO
Shutter Speed: 1/60 1/125 1/250 1/500 1/1000 1/2000 1/4000
Aperature: f 2.8 f 4 f 5.6 f 8 f 11 f 16 f22
ISO: 100 200 400 800 1600 3200 6400
*In order to keep a proper exposure, do this. Manually expose to get a good looking image. Now, each time you move the shutter speed, aperature, or ISO up or down, move one of the other options in the opposite direction. For instance a shutter speed at 1/125 sec at f 5.6 with an ISO at 800 will give you the same exposure as a shutter speed at 1/500 sec at f 2.8 with an ISO at 800. Another example is 1/500 sec at f 2.8 with an ISO of 800. Or, you can be a little more tricky and use 1/1000 sec at f 4 with an ISO at 3200.
For a game being played outside in the daylight, I’ll start by setting my shutter speed at 1/1000 sec. if possible. If it is during the day, my ISO will be low. Somewhere in ISO 100-ISO 400 range. If it is cloudy or approaching dusk, you may be in the ISO 800-ISO 6400 range. If it is a night game it may be ISO 4000, 6400 (depending on the stadium lights) or ISO 8000. You may even be higher than ISO 10000 in some instances if it is very dark. The lower the ISO will give you less noise in your pictures.
If I am in an arena or gym with good lights and possibly even some daylight, the ISO may be anywhere from ISO 640 to ISO 6400. Ultimately, I am trying to keep the shutter speed at or above 1/1000 sec.
Nov 14, 2019; Cleveland, OH, USA; Cleveland Cavaliers forward Larry Nance Jr. (22) makes a basket as Miami Heat forward Chris Silva (30) defends during the fourth quarter at Rocket Mortgage FieldHouse. Nance Jr. got injured on the play and the Heat won 108-97. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D750 200-400mm f/4 1/1000 sec; f4; ISO 8000
KEEP THAT BUTTON PRESSED DOWN WHILE TAKING PICTURES
Now that you are properly exposed, let's move to the next step.
One good way to get options from a play is to have many frames to choose from. Keep that button fully pressed while taking pictures as you anticipate a play happening and magic may happen. You may have a bunch of meaningless images, but you may have the opposite. You may have several frames of a person sliding into second base and several more frames of the shortstop in the the air jumping over the runner. And a few more frames of the infielder falling back to the ground.
By taking a “burst” of images from one play, it will allow you to get the moment right before peak action as well as peak and the moments right after the play. Sometimes peak action may not be the best picture. It may be how a baseball looks right before hitting the ball. Or, it may be right after a soccer player kicks the ball and the positioning of the ball. But, if you take a burst of photos on a play, you will have options. And believe me, there is power in numbers. Especially when you shoot a lot of frames on one play.
For instance, in Super Bowl XLIII, I shot over 100 frames of a single play. James Harrison of the Pittsburgh Steelers intercepted a ball thrown by Arizona Cardinals quarterback Kurt Warner in his own end zone. The interception normally would've been the key moment. But, he proceeded to run the ball over 100 yards to the other end zone for a score as the first half ended. The play at both goal lines made great action shots as did the jubilation of the tired Steelers player in the end zone. But but having a fast shutter speed and stopping the action, I had several images from that one play to choose from for publication in the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review the next day.
Nikon D3 600mm f/4 1/640 sec; f4; ISO 2000
3 TAKE-AWAYS FOR MAKING BETTER STOP ACTION PHOTOS
The 3 take-aways to getting better stop action pictures in sports photography are:
1. Set the shutter above 1/1000 sec.
2. One up the aperture
3. Keep the shutter pressed
If you do these three things, you will make many memorable images (sometimes it's a sequence from one play.)
If you have any idea, question or topic you would like me to discuss, please leave a comment on Pavely Photography social media, email me at [email protected], or leave a comment in the blog post at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Thanks, and happy shooting!
-Phil
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Sports Photography Class with Philip G. Pavely/Pavely Photography
Mar 30, 2019; Columbus, OH, USA; Atlanta United midfielder Ezequiel Barco (8) falls to the wet grass near Columbus Crew midfielder Robinho (18) and midfielder Wil Trapp (6) at MAPFRE Stadium. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S 300mm f/2.8 1/800 sec; f4; ISO 6400 Manual
How do I prepare and execute while working in the rain?
I am often asked, “Should I take pictures in the rain?” “Will my camera still work?”
And I reply, “How bad do want the image?” “What type of camera do you have?”
Sometimes you have no option. Sometimes, you really want to capture moments at an event, whether it’s inclement weather or not. Sometimes, you’re caught red-handed.
Apr 6, 2018; Pittsburgh, PA, USA; Pittsburgh Pirates releiver Edgar Santana (37) delivers a fifth inning pitch against the Cincinnati Reds at PNC Park. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S 300mm f/2.8 1/800 sec; f4; ISO 6400 Manual
A lot of the DSLR camera bodies are water resistant and the more expensive lenses have coatings that can withstand rain for a period of time. I am a Nikon shooter and all of my bodies and lenses are “weather resistant” to a certain degree. With proper coverings, you can shoot in the rain all day.
Mar 30, 2019; Columbus, OH, USA; Atlanta United forward Hector Villalba (15) moves the ball in thesecond half against the Columbus Crew at MAPFRE Stadium. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S 300mm f/2.8 1/800 sec; f4; ISO 6400 Manual
Plan Ahead
If you know you’re going to be shooting in the rain, how can you prepare?
I keep rain gear in my car so I am always prepared. When I know I will be outside covering a game, I always look at weather prior to grabbing my rain gear, if needed. I personally like to look at the radar on www.wunderground.com but there are many other options.
For starters, I am a Gore-Tex guy. I know there are other choices, but their products have been consistent and served me well over the years. I wear a hat, have a waterproof jacket, waterproof pants, and most important…shoes! You have to have dry feet as long as possible. Gore-Tex shoes have been a game-changer for me.
If I am covering football, I use knee pads. I like to kneel for the angle, but I also take up less space which in turn has less rain hitting me. Most kinds of knee pads that are for contractors or Dek hockey will work. I prefer plastic (so it doesn’t absorb water or wet ground) with velcro straps for a quick on or off.
Also, make sure you have a clean disc and fully charged battery for the camera as you do not want to open any parts in the rain if you can help it. The inside is not weather resistant! Also, make sure you have a lens hood and it is on before you go in the rain. This will give you an extra layer of protection from keeping out moisture as much as possible.
Coverings for Cameras and Lenses
If you have a long lens then there is a cover you can get. Common brands used by professionals are AquaTech, Op/Tech, and Think Tank just to name a couple.
The more expensive ones can fit a specific camera body and lens size.
If you do not have a lens cover, I’d recommend getting one. In the meantime, you can make your own. You can use a plastic bag. On the bottom seam of the bag, make a small slit and put that over the from element. Screw on the lens cover if you have one to keep it in place. The open end of the bag will be by your camera. Fold it over so you can see and use some tape to keep it in place. The best tape if gaffers tape and I could do a whole article on my favorite tape.
Shooting in the Rain
Now that we’ve properly planned, we can shoot in the rain.
Mar 30, 2019; Columbus, OH, USA; Columbus Crew midfielder Artur (8) and Atlanta United forward Romario Williams (9) play the ball in the second half at MAPFRE Stadium. Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S 300mm f/2.8 1/800 sec; f4; ISO 6400 Manual
I have shot shot many, many games in the rain. The wettest I think I ever was 1996 in Baltimore for a Steelers-Ravens game. The Counting Crows song “It’s Raining in Baltimore” took on a new meaning as it rained…the…entire..time…in.Baltimore. This may be the only time in my life I got pelted by horizontal rain...for hours
I love the images made in the rain. Not always though as I have been wet and miserable more than once when shooting in the rain. But, I love when the droplets fill the frame (especially with a dark background. And I love when a player goes sliding across the grass leaving dirt, turf, and water flying through the air.
One benefit from shooting in the rain is consistent lighting. Unlike a bright sunny day, you shouldn’t have to manage your settings too much. There will not be harsh shadows. Instead, it will be pretty consistent lighting. A good cloud cover is like a “giant soft box” and helps with photographing faces because there isn't too much contrast.
The Steelers Nate Washington is brought down by the Dolphins Jason Allen during second quarter action at Heinz Field Nov. 26, 2007. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
Nikon D2Hs 400mm f/2.8 1/640 sec; f2.8; ISO 800 Manual
If possible, I put the wind to my back to protect the front element just a little bit more.
I do tend to move less less in the rain. I prefer to hunker down instead of constantly running for a different spot during rain game. Also, when moving around, you increase the chances of getting water on your front element of the lens.
The Steelers Larry Foote celebrates a first quarter tackle by kicking the soggy grass at Heinz Field Nov. 26, 2007. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
Nikon D2Hs 400mm f/2.8 1/640 sec; f2.8; ISO 800 Manual
Make sure you do not shoot up or you will get a wet front element. Try to keep the lens straight or lowered down a bit. If you are shooting up, be thankful you have a lens hood.
You can wipe it off, but be careful not to scratch the glass. If there is just water, I use a dry microfiber rag that I keep in an inside dry pocket. If you do not clean the water spots off of the front lens, it will show up in the pictures as each drop will leave out of focus parts on the image.
One of the biggest challenges to shooting in the rain is focus. The auto-focus on your camera may jump around as it is picking up the rain between you and the subject. Plan on having some out of focus images, especially if there is a heavy rain. Sometimes, I use auto-focus to lock in on my subject if they are standing still. Then, I flip over to manual focus to wait for a moment to happen and I get the shot...in focus.
Mar 30, 2019; Columbus, OH, USA; Columbus Crew goalkeeper Zack Steffen (23) shields his face from the rain in the second half against Atlanta United at MAPFRE Stadium.: Philip G. Pavely (USA TODAY Sports)
Nikon D3S 300mm f/2.8 1/800 sec; f4; ISO 6400 Manual
Use as fast of a shutter speed as you can. This will freeze the water droplets and sprays as well as any turf that may go flying. If it’s raining, it’s darker. So, bump up your ISO so you can have a shutter speed above 1/000 sec. for starters. Again, I like to keep my aperture in the range of f2.8-f 5.6.
After Shooting in the Rain
Once we have finished shooting in the rain, it is important to dry off all of your gear.
Make sure you wipe the outside (once again, I use a micro-fiber) getting in all of the cracks and crevices. Get the eyepiece and remove the lens. Wipe where the connections and make sure there is no moisture on the camera or lens. Make sure there the area where the battery is kept is dry.
So, next time there is a game going on in the rain, do not be afraid of the elements. Have some type of covering for your gear and go have fun!
Pittsburgh Pirates Jason Kendall gets drenched on second base in the ninth inning moments before the game was suspended for a rain delay Sept. 7, 1998. Philip G. Pavely (Pittsburgh Tribune-Review)
If you have any idea, question or topic you would like me to discuss, please leave a comment on Pavely Photography social media, email me at [email protected], or leave a comment in the blog post at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Thanks, and happy shooting!
-Phil
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Sports Photography Class with Pavely Photography
What is a Backlit Photo?
Backlight noun — “illumination from behind”
Have you ever seen a photo where the subject juts really pops out because it appears they are outlined with light
I was recently asked by a parent taking pictures at a soccer game how they could create the "halo effect" during action. The answer is... take a backlight photo.
Steelers vs Colts for USA Today (2019) shot with a Nikon D750 using a 70-200mm at 1/1600 sec; f/5.0; ISO 640; Manual
These types of photos can be hard to master and you will probably have many fails along the way, but with practice, you can make many dreamy photos as the light wraps itself around your subject.
Pittsburgh Three Rivers Marathon (2015) shot with a Nikon D3 with a 70-200mm at 1/2500 sec; f/46.3; ISO 640; Manual
The "halo effect" is the direct result of a backlit subject. When your subject has the light source directly behind them (at sporting events this is generally the sun but can also be stadium lights or the lighting setup from other members in the media or stage lights) it makes your subject appear as they they are outlined by highlights.
Eddie Vedder in concert (1998) This is not from a sporting event, but I love Pearl Jam and the stage lights have him backlit
I love this effect so much that I routinely place a flash behind the subject when taking a portrait and using multiple lights. The second light would be used for fill flash.
I shoot backlit photos when I get the chance. The exposure can be tricky at times as the action switches from side-light to backlit and there are many chances to have bad exposures. Don’t be surprised if a lot of your first images are really dark.
How do I Expose for Backlit Photos?
If you expose properly, the reward can be an awesome image. The subject will pop and a warm tone will be present. You will also be able to see each individual hair if you shoot tight enough. People ask me routinely, ‘how do you get each hair?’ Well, I shoot tight and try to make my subject backlit.
The opposite end of the dial can leave you with a silhouette, which at times can also give you a good image. But this article is mainly about the non-silhouette backlit image.
Jerome Bettis of the Pittsburgh Steelers shot for the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review (2004) is silhouetted as he makes his way upstairs the day after an NFL game.
When exposing, your camera may be fooled by all of the light coming in and leave you with a darker picture than you want. Just remember to open up the aperture a stop or so to make sure you can see the face in the finished product. You can also bump up the ISO or lower the shutter speed. Take a look at the preview image on your camera and make any needed adjustments. You can use the your cameras spot metering to get a more pinpointed meter reading if you are exposing in the manual mode.
Make sure you are using shallow depth of field as light objects in the background will be more pronounced and become very distracting. This will blur the background and isolate your subject even more. I prefer to be at f/2.8 to f/5.6 more often than not. If I venture above f/5.6, it is not by much.
Lens Flare
Another problem you may come across when taking a backlit photo is lens flare. Sometimes, this may be an effect you are going for, but for some images, it can be distracting. You may experience this when shooting directly into your light source. If the shadows are coming directly towards you, lens flare may be an issue.
One way around this is a lens hood. They are relatively cheap and very useful. They also protect the lens glass, to some extent, if it gets bumped or dropped. Hoods have saved me from very expensive repairs more than once after dropping my lens.
You can also use your hand and hold it over the top of the lens while taking pictures. As you look through the lens everything will appear very bright. But as you place your hand in position above the lens, you will notice the blacks get blacker as the contrast starts to pop.
You can also find a shaded spot if possible while shooting. Common items I use at sporting events include a tree, pole, overhang or even another person. All you need is a small shaded space for the end of your lens.
Pittsburgh Three Rivers Marathon (2015) shot with a Nikon D800 using a 17mm at 1/2500 sec; f/6.3; ISO 1250; Manual
Warning! Do not look through the view finder if you are shooting directly into the sun!
Move Around
Be mobile! Make sure you move and check out different angles because a couple of steps in any direction can have huge effects. I try to be be mobile at most events if roaming is possible. Sometimes I am scouting out clean backgrounds, but other times I am seeing how the light changes by walking around a field.
When is the Best Time to Shoot Backlit Photos?
The time of day matters greatly when taking backlit photos. With the sun closer to the horizon, the hours coming out of sun rise or leading into sunset usually provide more chances than in the middle of the afternoon. This would be during the ‘golden hour.’You will have a good idea if you see a long shadow. Just position yourself so the shadow is coming to you, and voila! You will now have a backlit photo.
So, grab your camera and get outside at the start or end of daylight to create a nice backlit photo. Just remember, take many pictures. I often say, “There is power in numbers.” The more you shoot, the more likely you will have great looking images as long as you are making camera adjustments and moving around. A few feet in either direction, or how high you position yourself from the ground can have results that vary greatly.
Good luck and if you have any specific questions related to making better sports photographs that you would like to address, email me at [email protected] or comment on this link, or you can find me at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Thanks, and happy shooting!
-Phil
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Sports Photography Class with Pavely Photography
Have you ever taken pictures at your kids sporting event on a warm, sunny day thinking it was perfect for pictures, only to find out your end result was a lot of out of focus pictures that looked like a filter had been put over all of the images?
I was recently asked this question, and around the same time I found myself in a similar situation. I was at a warm turf field on a sunny morning, using a 200-400mm for a soccer game. When the subject was far away, and I shot up the field at 380mm, all of the images looked out of focus. Sometimes, from the waist up they were sharp, but overall, all of the images in this situation were useless when the action was far away.
Camera: Nikon D3S Lens: 200-400mm 1/2000 sec. f/5.0 ISO 640 Exposure: Manual
Why is this? Has it ever happened to you?
The cause of this is heat distortion and it occurs when there is a significant temperature difference between the ground and the air above it. When the sun beats down on a turf field, in this instance, the result is heat transferring from the surface to the air. Then, while the heated air rises the cooler air descends. This difference in the air density of cool air and warm air creates a filter-like image of a shimmer or a mirage.
It is common on a hot summer day looking down a road or above an automobile as the sun bounces off. But it also happens at turf and grass fields regularly. When using a long lens on an open playing field, this distortion is magnified. It has happened to me during NFL games at stadiums as well as youth soccer playing fields.
Camera: Nikon D3S Lens: 200-400mm 1/2000 sec. f/5.0 ISO 640 Exposure: Manual
Heat distortion can ruin the end result of captured images with the effect described above, but it can also confuse your Auto Focus sensor on the camera. The AF sensor can be tricked trying to find focus focus and bounce back and forth as it tries to lock in on something sharp. The result may be a lot of out of focus images due to the AF sensor and not the actual heat distortion. And this is not good when you have to shoot a fast paced game and get the images.
This can happen in most places any month of the year, even here in rarely sunny Pittsburgh, PA.
WHAT IS THE SOLUTION?
So, can you avoid heat distortion? No. Not in certain instances. But you can try a few things to mix it up to see if it becomes less of an issue. You cannot change the fact that there will be a distortion on certain surfaces due to a change in temperature. Being a sports photographer, you have no control over when or where the game is, so you have to adapt. No fancy camera, expensive lens, or filter will eliminate this issue.
But, you do have several options.
1. ANGLE You can change your angle. I typically like to kneel when shooting sports to get a cleaner background. However, being closer to a warm turf surface on some sunny days, I stand to get above the heat waves as much as possible when shooting down a long field. If you are already standing, then change your location to see if there is a different spot to shoot from that does not display this effect as much. If possible, walk all sides of the field to see if the effect is less visible from a different spot.
2. TIME The time of day may be worse in the morning or afternoon. Therefore, the effect may be different at the start as opposed to later in the game. The temperature may change slightly too and the sun will change location. Waiting is an option, but not always a viable one.
3. CLOSER GET CLOSER! If you have to photograph the event, the best solution is to get closer to the action. But be aware not to get too close for your safety. Pay attention to your surrounds and get closer to the action if possible. As the players get closer to you and fill up more of the frame in your camera, the effect won’t be as visible as the less air that the heat passes through, the less likely you will encounter distortion due to heat waves. If you use a long lens to compact the image, you are also compacting heat waves which results in soft out of focus pictures. So, pay attention to your surroundings and change lenses to get closer to the action if needed. The reward will be usable images that are not out of focus due to the temperature on the ground and air.
So, next time you are at a sporting event trying to get images and you experience heat distortion, don’t give up or make an excuse to buy new gear. That won’t solve the problem. Try getting closer to the action if possible, or changing your lenses so you do not have as long of a telephoto lens on. If you can take the pictures another time, that may also work but that may also be unreasonable. Or, change your angle or place you are shooting from.
Good luck and if you have any specific questions related to making better sports photographs that you would like to ask, email me at [email protected] or comment on this link, or you can find me at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Thanks, and happy shooting!
-Phil
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Several videos of the comparisons, along with Words of Wisdom and a kimchi challenge can be viewed on the YouTube Channel "Martial Arts Swap Chat"
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The article is in the link below.
"What you should know about cyberbullying: It's on the rise amid the pandemic."
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Click on the link below for the full article.
https://www.kidsburgh.org/heres-the-secret-to-happy-successful-kids-pittsburgh-experts-weight-in/
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Super Bowl XXX - This was my first, and in many ways, my favorite to shoot. It was huge, but not as big as it would grow into over the next 15 years. The Pittsburgh Steelers lost to the Dallas Cowboys, and when the newspaper had to readjust our travel plans, that left me with an extra couple days in Arizona.
Super Bowl XL - This also was my favorite Super Bowl to cover in many ways. I covered all of the home game and traveled to all of the away games this season. With a very pregnant wife, someone was hoping the Steelers would just lose so I could be home. But they kept winning, until they defeated the Seattle Seahawks for that fifth ring.
Super Bowl XLIII - An amazing game to photograph. There were so many memorable moments in this game. My personal favorite was being on James Harrison's 103 yard Pick 6 for 100+ frames.
Super Bowl XLV - My last Super Bowl as a Tribune-Review photographer. The Steelers lost this one to the Green Bay Packers in a game that produced some decent images, but not my finest work. I still want one for the thumb. For me, I plan on attending some Super Bowl with my son as a fan just to complete the ring.
]]>With the recognition, the Hall displayed the photo as part of an exhibit and kept it in its archives. Being from Cincinnati, it became a joke amongst my family and friends that I made it into the Baseball Hall of Fame before Pete Rose (which I believe he deserves to be as a player!).
When Pittsburgh Pirates legend Bill Mazeroski got elected to the Hall, I made another trek to Cooperstown. This was the first time I ever shot an induction ceremony. The weekend of festivities with all of the crowds in the sweltering heat, was well worth the wait for Maz.
]]>On this date, April 20th, my concert pictures of Pink and Justin Timberlake were published in the Tribune-Review. I scoffed at this assignment at first but have grown to appreciate both musicians over the years.
I saw many great shows at the Civic Arena, and this one in 2007 was my last one at that venue.
]]>"Le Magnifique & Le Mail man"
OTD, April 16, 2007, this photo was published in the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review.
I have had a lot of fun on many of the assignments I covered over the years. This day definitely stands out as not every day do you have Speedy Delivery, from Mister Rogers Neighborhood, maneuvering past NHL Hall of Famer Mario Lemieux with over-sized scissors for a ribbon cutting at The Children's Home of Pittsburgh. The new location features Austin's Playroom, named after Lemieux's son who was born prematurely.
Philip G. Pavely/Pittsburgh Tribune-Review
When shooting baseball, a pitcher picture is always a must. It doesn't matter if it is youth rec baseball or the pros in MLB. They touch the ball to start every play so the opportunities are many. You will have many opportunities to move around during the course of a game, typically.
Part of the equation for getting a good pitcher in-action is the background. Having the background darker helps him pop out.
Youth Baseball: Philip G. Pavely Pittsburgh Pirates: Philip G. Pavely/USA Today Sports Images
]]>Since my photography business is shut down for the time being, it allows me to do other things, like upload my images to the cloud.
I just surpassed 2,000,000 uploads. 2 million!
I am often asked about how many pictures I take and how do I store them?
The simple answer is everything is backed up to external hard drives and a copy of all of the hard drives is backed up to the cloud.We are talking about 15-20 TB right now. For the cloud, I prefer Box.com because I have unlimited storage, you can share a plan with a friend, and your images do not get sized down like it would with Google.
At an average sporting event I generally shoot 1-2,000 images during the game. Obviously, at Super Bowls and other major events a lot more pictures are taken. Not to mention, I am shooting pre-game and post-game. For the sake of a quick flow and to meet in-game deadlines, I shoot 99% jpg and not RAW.
Managing files can drive you insane. Organization and consistency is key. You have to clean your cards regularly after each shoot so you don't get confused and lose track of files or in case your card becomes corrupt.
As soon as I get back from a shoot, the first thing I do is to transfer my cards to the desk top. A master folder is created with the date (2020-04-07) with sub-folders briefly stating what I shot that day (Folder 1 is Sunrise and Folder 2 is Mason hoops).
Those folders and copied to an external hard drive and to the cloud. The original folder on my desktop is what I edit down and work with. So, for all of my "keepers" there are usually a couple of untouched files to keep them preserved the way I shot them. I want a spare copy here and there in case any become corrupt over time.
How do you store your files?
I attended my first Opening Day in Cincinnati as a high school teenager with a reporters credential from the Delaware Gazette to cover the Reds in 1987. Being in Pete Rose's office for the post-game definitely put a bug in the career path I would take. As a kid, it was a dream come true to hear "Charlie Hustle" pontificate about the game from his office in Riverfront Stadium.
Fast forward several years and I was still getting credentialed to cover Opening Day. Whether it was Three Rivers Stadium or PNC Park, I was always thrilled when the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review or USA Today assigned me to photograph Opening Day. It was a joyous day, kind of like a holiday.
Today the Pirates should be starting the season at PNC Park. Instead, we are all at our homes wondering when the game will be played again.
Photo: Philip G. Pavely / Tribune-Review during Opening Day April 8, 2002
]]>I was watching the replay of the 1960 World Series last night, and wow! What an awesome moment with the walk-off homer by the Pittsburgh Pirates Bill Mazeroski to defeat the New York Yankees in the bottom of the ninth during Game 7.
I have photographed "Maz" numerous times over the years. Whether it was spring training, PNC Park, the statue, or the 1960 World Series radio replay they do every year at the remnants of the Forbes Field walI. However, this day sticks out the most as I was fortunate enough to be assigned to cover his Hall of Fame induction August, 2001 for the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review www.triblive.com
Everyone knew it was going to be a tear-jerker kind of day for "Maz" as he accepted his plaque. He choked up and became very emotional as he gave his acceptance speech and his feelings could be felt by everyone at Cooperstown that day in the very hot sun. It seems like everyone there was either wet from sweat or tears.
Thank you Maz for that momentous home run, and I cannot wait until the Pirates have their next post-season hero. Now, we just need to Play Ball!
]]>When you are composing your picture, use the lines and shapes in your background you are already given to your advantage. You want people who are looking at your pictures to have their eyes moving through the image.
For the Pirates team on Opening Day,I knew where the players would line up in conjunction with the sign, stands, and city to make a good horizontal flow. Everything stretches from left to right including the main subjects in uniform.
For the exercising photo, I used extreme lines and waited for my subject to come into the frame. I found a clean background and raised my camera to clean it up even more and to exaggerate the horizontal lines on a playing field.
]]>Sports Photography Class-Pre-Game Action
Before the game starts is a great time to get isolated action of a player. Teams repeat drills over and over as the players move through the line. This presents a great opportunity to get a shot of your child because you know what they will be doing and where they will be doing it.
This is true for baseball in grounders, football for passing, and in this case soccer for shots on goal.
The Hope Solo shot of the USWNT from 2015 is of her as she fields her teammates shots on goal. I pretty much knew that each ball was coming her way, it was just if she would be going left or right. Pre-game shots can be distracting with a bunch of extra people on the field, but if you wait patiently and get lucky you will get a clean shot.
For the youth soccer player (my recurring subject as it is impossible to find a real game going on) I camped out by the goal post and pressed my shutter down all the way from right when the ball was kicked through the end of the play.
You will have many times when you take useless shots in this time as you anticipate the action coming to you, only to have it go the other way. That's ok, be patient and continue to shoot as you will get something if your patient.
During pre-game for the Steelers or Pirates or Penguins I typically shoot hundreds of pictures as this is a great time to get individual players in their element.
So, when you are out photographing recess today, if your student/child is doing an exercise, try this out. Shoot the same drill as they practice and work on getting a nice isolated picture.
Camera Settings:
Hope Solo: 1/1000 sec; f4.5; ISO 320; Manual
Youth Player:1/1600 sec; f2.8; ISO 200; Manual
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Sports Photography Class: Look Up & Look Down
A lot of times at sporting events, where we take pictures is usually obvious as we follow the action or look for the moments away from the play. Have a curious eye.
But sometimes, interesting pictures can be found by simply looking up or down far away from the action. Try to find something different or interesting. Make someone looking at your photos do a double take.
Since you are now the gym teacher photographing parent, it's time to find something a little different as you document your kids activity.
The "No Standing" shot was taken at Tiger Stadium during the final season in 1999. I was taking different photos of the old relic before it was closed and stumbled across this interesting shot. Most of the pictures were taken looking straight ahead but others, like this one of feet dangling over a wall, were taken as I looked up and searched for something different.
As a parent in isolation from the public, interesting pictures can be hard to come by. The shot of the kid climbing under a fence was during an outside excursion to play. I had already shot my action, but I looked down when this different moment happened. It was a little different and reminded me of my trip to Tiger Stadium.
So, I challenge you to go out and when you make pictures today, try for a totally different angle and shoot up or shoot down and see what you get.
Camera settings:
Tiger Stadium: (shot on film and I can't remember)
Under the Fence: 1/2200 sec; ISO 20, shot on an iPhone
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A wide angle lens can put you right in the middle of what's happening. You will need to pay attention for flying balls, bodies, and celebrations, but the outcome can be rewarding.
Since you are home with your family right now and do not need to adhere to the six-foot rule, what do you say we work on some photos where we are close to the subject. Grab your camera and widest lens (the lowest mm number among your lenses) and get ready for some close action of people or pets.
Baseball should be starting up now , but since all sports are on hold, I have to find different action. My subject today was a soccer player practicing her goal keeping. Since this was not a professional game, I was able to get closer than usual to the action and shot this at 16mm. For MLS games, I would have to be behind the field photo line, but for this I was able to position myself on the post and shot as many frames as I could each time there was a shot on goal, all the while keeping aware of the missed shots.
You should chimp (look at the back of your camera) a little to see if you are properly exposed and to see how the background looks. With a wide angle, you will have a lot in focus. This can be good, but it can also add some very distracting items like poles growing out of people. Take a look and adjust if you need to clean up your background.
For the baseball celebration, members of the Pittsburgh Pirates celebrate a walk-off win. I was positioned in the third base photo well and used one of the two cameras I was shooting with. One lens is a telephoto for tight game action, but the other is a wide-angle lens in case the action, or in this case, jubilation gets close to me. This time I got a nice shot at 19mm, and stained clothes from the bath we both ensued. So beware when you are getting close. Sometimes, you will become part of it.
So, while your are telling the action stories of your children, be sure to include a wide-angle shot to get a different perspective.
For more photo tips, visit the blog at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Camera settings:
Soccer: 1/2500 sec; f5; ISO 500; Manual
Baseball: 1/1000 sec; f4; ISO 220; Manual
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We should all be enjoying this extra rec time with our kids. Now let's get a shot of them in-between the plays.
I couldn't find any professional sporting events going on today, but I did find this football player passing time in the yard.
Sometimes the action just isn't happening. Why don't we take this time to get an updated portrait.
We previously talked about the importance of a clean background. Now, go the next step and make it a clean background that is dark. Do you notice how the subject pops out even more?
For more photo tips on how to take better sports photos, go to www.PavelyPhotography.com
Camera Settings: 1/800 sec; f4.5; ISO 1600
Backyard:
NFL:
Philip G. Pavely / USA Today Sports Images
Sports Photography Tip: Find a Clean Dark Background
We should all be enjoying this extra rec time with our kids. Now let's get a shot of them in-between the plays.
I couldn't find any professional sporting events going on today, but I did find this football player passing time in the yard.
Sometimes the action just isn't happening. Why don't we take this time to get an updated portrait.
We previously talked about the importance of a clean background. Now, go the next step and make it a clean background that is dark. Do you notice how the subject pops out even more?
Camera Settings:
Backyard: 1/800 sec; f4.5; ISO 1600; Manual
NFL: 1/1000; f4; ISO 1000; Manual
Philip G. Pavely / USA Today Sports Images
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You have now become the home school gym class teacher and family yearbook photographer. It's now time to elevate our game by combining these two to get better sports photos.
Have you ever had your camera set for automatic exposure and most of your pictures come out too light or too dark?
exposure, your sensor will get fooled and your pictures will come out too dark or too light.
This happens because your camera sensor gets fooled. The subject may be too small in your frame and the camera gets fooled if there is a lot of sky or the color of the shirt is really dark. This will result in your pictures either being over exposed or under exposed.
A general rule of thumb I have learned is that a grass field is very similar to skin color when exposing. This may not be the case for a bright synthetic field or it may not work if the sun is close to the horizon. Clouds may also interfere.But in general, I think of the outfield grass as a giant grey card.
So try this. Make sure your camera is in manual mode for exposure. Fill the entire frame with a grass field where your kids are playing. Do a meter reading (the focus does not matter). Take a picture. Now take a picture of your kids in action and you should have a pretty close (if not spot on) properly exposed picture.
Camera settings: 1/1000 sec; f4, ISO 1000 Manual
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Sports Photography Class: Get a high angle for a clean shot
When taking sports photos, the background can get cluttered rather quickly. One way to clean up your photo is to position yourself above the action.
Sometimes this isn't possible, or sometimes all of the green from the field can be rather, blah. But, sometimes, it is the best option.
If you can shoot from a hillside, use a long lens, and that will work just fine.
The only action I could find today was my son playing with a football. Seeing how we are in the current COVID-19 situation, sports in general have come to a halt. For this picture, I climbed a hill and used my 80-200mm.
For the other photo, I got this from a front row shooting position between the Steelers and Cardinals in Super Bowl XLIII. James Harrison intercepted the pass and returned it the distance for a pick-6 touchdown. Field level action of him running to you would be great, but when he collapsed in the end zone from exhaustion, I think the overhead angle works just fine too.
So, when you are out playing with your kids try taking pictures from a high angle to see how it looks different. It can be from a hill, or even out of a window in your house.
If you want more tips on how to make better sports photos, visit my blog at www.PavelyPhotography.com
Camera settings:
Backyard Football: 1/1250 sec; f5.0; ISO 1600 Manual
Super Bowl XLIII: 1/640 sec; f4.0; ISO 2000 Manual
Steelers Photo: Philip G. Pavely / Pittsburgh Tribune-Review
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Sports Photography Tip: Shoot at a Fast Shutter Speed
When taking sports action photos, you want to freeze the action. A fast shutter speed allows you to do this.
A lot of times, families are impressed with grass flying, water sprays frozen in mid air, sweat beads on the face... They wonder how they can take these types of photos. Well, I will tell you that it's quite simple, shoot at the fastest shutter speed your camera allows. You may not have to go to the fastest like 1/8000sec, but the faster you shoot, the more frozen action you get.
When you increase the shutter speed, you will have to compensate with your ISO or f-stop. For instance, if I increase the speed from 1/250 sec to 1/1000/ sec (250-500-1000), that is two stops. I can either increase my ISO from 400 to 1600 (400-800-1600) or open up my aperture from f5.6-f2.8 (5.6-4-2.8) or a combination of both (my ISO could go from 400-800 and my aperture from 5.6-4.)
You can also go in 1/3 stops, but I am just focusing on full stops right now.
Instead of photographing professionals right now, all I could find was a soccer player practicing juggling. Here is a blade of grass falling from the cleat, and a shot from MLS of water frozen in mid-air. It was actually very cold that night and felt like it should have been snowing.
The grass is more frozen in mid-air because I used a faster shutter speed (1/4000 sec) compared to the water (1/800 sec).
So parents, go outside with your camera when your kids are trying to entertain themselves and try to get some action at a high shutter speed.
Settings:
Tight soccer photo: 1/4000 sec; f5.6; ISO 4000; Manual
Rainy soccer game: 1/800 sec; f4; ISO 8000; Manual
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Ryan Shazier was placed on the reserve/retired list. Shazier spent the past 2 seasons recovering from a spinal injury suffered in December 2017. Shalieve!
Typically, this time of year I am shooting the NHL, college tournaments, high school teams, or youth sports leagues that are starting up. My clients range from large companies like USA Today Sports Images to the local parent who just wants some good pictures of their kids in action.
Since we are all now supposed to be in groups smaller than 10, it looks like YOU will be the one taking the pictures. So, let me help you do this and teach some of my photography tricks of the trade I have learned over the past 25+ years as a photojournalist.
In sports photography, the background is key. You can have a great action photo but a distracting background kills the picture. Sometimes you want to show atmosphere and a sense of feeling from the event. That's the scene setter. Other times, you just want to isolate the subject. That is an action portrait. One of the best ways to get good action portraits is to have a background free of distractions, a clean background. Now zoom in and go to a 200mm or even a 400mm.
This time, all I could find were neighborhood boys in a small group before social distancing took the next step. Since I just wanted my son in the picture, my challenge was to zoom in and shoot tight with as clean of background as possible. I had houses, toys, cars, bare trees, bright varying shades of green, and you name it. A tighter zoom eliminates a lot of the distractions.
Most sporting events, or in our backyard, there tends to be a lot of clutter that can destroy a good image. Typically it seems, those bright objects in the background that add no importance to the photo are some of the biggest culprits. Try to limit the highlights in the background. You will have to move around but look for what would make a good background and let the action come to you. If the action is not happening, move to another spot.
Depth of field is also your friend when trying to get a clean action shot. I like to aim for f2.8-f5.6 with f4 being my go to more often than not. The lower the number will give you a blurrier background. Locate the aperture on your lens (f-stop ring) and use the smallest number. Now may be a great time to go to aperture mode or preferably manual mode on your camera if you know how.
If I were shooting youth baseball right now, I would be using a 300 at about f4 and sitting somewhere so my background would be clean.
So, grab your camera, go outside with your kids, and start taking better pictures of them as you all make the most of outdoor recess.
Camera Settings: 1/2500 sec; f4; ISO 3200, Manual
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A lot of my followers and clients are parents of kids in sports. Unfortunately, I won't be taking their pictures anytime soon, but I will be giving you insight on how you can take your own sports photos just like a professional.
One thing that differentiates the pro from the others is the amount of pictures taken during an event. I typically shoot up to 2,000 frames during your average game, however with large events like the Super Bowl this number is easily doubled. I like to say, "The more the merrier." And this includes the number of pictures taken.
An easy way I get to these high numbers is shooting action in bursts. Your camera has a setting for frames per second (fps) so use it. Set it to the highest number possible. The cameras I use have a 7 or 9 fps continuous shooting speed. Yours may be 3, but that's ok. When taking action, maximize your camera and keep your finger depressed on the trigger so you hear your shutter shooting continuously.
My subject today is of my daughter juggling. This is a several second burst in which I shot 49 frames and the best image that I would pick is the last one. The...very...last...one.
I stayed with the action and moved my camera as the subject moved left to right, kept my finger on the button, and got a good frame.
I hope this helps any and all aspiring sports photographers and until next time, See Ya!
If you have any questions or other aspects of sports photography you would like me to cover then please comment below, visit my website at www.PavelyPhotography.com or email me at [email protected]
Camera settings: 1/1250 sec; f 4.0; ISO 400
]]>It was "A Day in the Life of Mr. Rogers" that stretched out for a month as I (and my hair) hung out with him. On the last day, Joe Negri took our photo at the request of Mr. Rogers so we could remember our time together. When I was done, he grabbed my hand and said, "Philip, you are welcome in my neighborhood anytime!"
Cheers, and have fun at the movie.
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Welcome to the Pavely Photography Blog!
After a hiatus (you know how it is getting busy with, life, family and work) I am bringing back the blog.
The photo and video content here will give a glimpse into what I am doing day-to-day. Whether it is a sports, real estate, commercial assignment, or side projects (Play Positive Pittsburgh with Coach Dave Gray of CDG Sports or Martial Arts Swap Chat with Master Zang of Zang Tae-kwon Do) or images of my kids at play, here it is.
Take a look around, ask me questions, or give me feedback.
To re-introduce myself, here is a photo from a recent Pittsburgh Steelers game at Heinz Field (I cover the home NFL Steelers games for USA Today Sports Images) Photo by Chuck LeClaire/USA Today Sports Images.
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The great feature hunt of a newspaper photographer can be boring, brutal on the car and mind, but yet rewarding as we "find" images in our area. The photo staff at www.triblive produced many great stand-alone images, or art, on a daily basis. Here are a couple of my favorite finds.
]]>Hanging out with Pittsburgh Steelers great Jerome Bettis the day after a football game for a story on how NFL players feel the day after a game was eye-opening, literally, as I greeted "The Bus" at his home the moment after he woke up. From his eating a bowl of cereal to sitting on the couch and watching ESPN from the previous nights game, which I photographed for www.triblive.com , to the moment when teammate Hines Ward stopped by to drop off his kids, the day was quite memorable. But the most memorable moment came when the running back ascended his steps on all fours because of the beating he took the night before.
]]>Visiting Mr. Rogers Neighborhood at WQED in the spring of 1996. After several visits, he asked me for a picture and softly said, "Philip, you are always welcome in my neighborhood."
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